Darlene’s Thread: Smocking, Sewing with Fur, and Stitch Elongation
Smocking is an embroidery technique that dates back to the Middle Ages. It typically reduces the dimensions of a piece fabric to one third its original size. Form-fitting and flexible, the embroidery technique used to smock allows the gathered, finished fabric to stretch. Although one may have seen smocking hand-worked with a crewel embroidery needle in the eighteenth century, today’s sewing machines offer us a variety of ways to acheive a smocked look adding texture and interest to apparel cuffs, collars, handbags, belts, bodices, necklines, waistlines and more.
On my recent vacation, I saw a lot of these little wrist bags. Perfect for your lipstick, credit cards, a camera or cell phone, these practical little pups served as my inspiration for an excuse to utilize smocking–one of my favorite techniques. I hope you’ll give it a try and surprise yourself by sewing smocking into an unexpected project.
Instructions
1) Wind a bobbin with elastic thread and thread the bobbin in machine as usual.
2) Adjust stitch length to 4.5mm
3) Stitch parallel rows 1/2″ apart on your fabric. Lightweight works best. voile, lt. cotton, silk, crepe de chine, batiste, pique. Stitch across one side and down the other without cutting your thread between rows. It will gather a little but keep sewing.
4) Pull the elastic thread from the underside edge untill all the rows are gathered as much as you like.
5) On the right side, Topstitch with a contrasting thread between the rows of stitching.
6) Now clip the remaining ‘around the corner elastic ends’ and pull out the elastic threads.
7) Remove the bobbinless straight stitch thread from the topside. Flexible, stretchable and ready to use in your next project!
- stitch
- pull elastic
- decorative stitch
- remove elastic and topthread
- smock purse
Fun Faux Fur Tips
Fortunately, we’ll be seeing fur adorning our apparel and accessories all over the runways again this fall. The selection is growing at your local fabric store, so whether you decide on a low pile or long hair variety, here’s a few tips for the best results!
1) Mark the pattern on the wrong side of the fur and insert the tip of your scissor as close to the fabric as possible. The idea is to cut only the fabric base–NOT the fur when cutting out the pattern.
2) after the cutting is complete, gently pull apart the pieces separating the fur.
3) When you’re adding a lining, you have two options, a) ‘comb’ the fur away from the edge b) cut the fur away from the edge 1/4″, then comb the new outline away from the seam. In this example with the longer hairs, I simply combed it out of the way.
The finished edge is natural with no accidental fur cuts or chunks sewn into seams. Experiment! Enjoy your new Lush look!
Stitch Elongation

Many of today’s computerized machines have an option known as Stitch Elongation. This feature allows a user to stretch a decorative stitch by up to 5X. In this example, using the scallop stitch at 5X it’s normal length gives you a delicate 2″ long curved edge detail. Here’s how I did it!
1) SET UP–machine top and bobbin threaded, set to the crescent stitch and then activate 5X elongation…
2) Stabilize the edge that you’re going to scallop. If your project is a stretch knit, you must completely immobilize the stretch so your machine will think that it’s a woven. I use a medium weight iron-on woven interfacing–the kind used for tailoring–sandwiched between the outer fabric and a facing of the same bridal satin. You may need to iron on TWO layers depending on the fabric’s weight and the amount of stretch. Remember, any stretching will distort the stitch patterns.
3) Stitch along the edge where you want the feminine border.
4) Carefully cut along the crescent just outside of the stitching. Be CAREFUL not to clip the stitches.
5) Set you machine to satin stitching–(zig-zag .04mm in length and 3mm in width) Now stitch over the scallops again encasing the small amount of thread on the edge so that all you see now is an even clean thread finish.
When-to-Watch
September is National Month of Sewing! For more tips and tricks for sewing check out our show schedule for the month:
September 7 @ 7 am and 10am ET
September 8 @ 6am, 2pm and 6pm ET
September 14, 15, 20, 22, 24, 25, and 26
See you on-air!
Darlene
More Sewing with Darlene Cahill:
» Top 10 Sewing Tips to Always Remember
» Choosing the Right Scissors to Make the Cut
» More sewing projects and ideas
More Sewing and Crafts from HSN.com:
» Shop sewing new arrivals
» Stay steady and organized with a great sewing table
» Shop all crafts and sewing supplies
















Hi Darlene,
When you are demonstrating the machines, can you please use fleece. I have sewn on machines which do like fleece or very thin fabrics.
Thank you as always
Hi Darlene! I need your advice please! I would like to buy a Cricut Cricut Expression 2 but I am not sure if I can cut fabric in it,do you recommend Cricut to cut fabric? please help me!!!! I’ll really apreciate your advice. Thank you.
Hi Darlene,
I noticed HSN is selling Juki. Are you going to be demonstrating this line of sewing machines like you do Singer and Brother? I would love to see how these work. Also, will HSN be coming out with another line of machines?
By the way, I love watching you on the air and all of the tips you give.
Darlene…OH NO!! got my singer hd110 today and the extension table was cracked. Already sent it back and the hsn gal was so nice and reserved me another. I’m so glad I was still able to get it. Didn’t sound like they would be on anymore. Sewers Gain Patience!!
Darlene, do not feel bad, I probably was one of the first to order the singer hd110 and it should be here tomorrow. Can’t wait! I know you said once there was a curve to learn to thread it or something like that can you tell me what it was? It was top threading. Loved watching you. The only thing hsn and singer should do different is have you on everyday!!!!! God bless.
I love to sew, embroider and quilt in the few years i got into the accuquilt system. I see HSN as some items. Will they ever have their product on live T.V.? THANK YOU can’t wait till OCT.
Hi Darlene!! I have an innovis 4000 Brother Disney embroidery machine and my question is, what is the name of the software that I’d need to convert my microsoft word fonts onto the digital part of my embroidery machine?
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. Love watching you on all these hsn shows.
I admire your talents,
Sharonangel
Darlene what happen to the brother’s machine not very much to look at I have the pc 420 and like to read the comments the new owners have to say
Boomom, I have no idea other than that they’re all sold out from National sewing month! I’ve never seen the inventory this low before but I’m sure it will pick up again very soon! Hope you’ll check back before long!
Darlene, off topic, but when will you have the singer serger 14t948ds on HSN?
No word yet but I’m hoping for the Professional 5-thread serger to return to HSN on Oct. 27th. I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks for hanging in there!
Hi Darlene- On one of your recent shows you sewed silk leaves on to a quilt. Just what I wanted to do! But can that be laundered? Or would it be “display” only. My two small boys and the 2 dogs need to know! Thanks
You can wash them if they’re fabric. Over time, the detergent may remove the shiny coating but the fabric should stay in tact. Sounds as if your boys and dogs are a bunch of lucky guys:)
Hi Darlene, I was hoping you could help me out, I bought the FQ-4 7 months ago or so from HSN and I want to know if there is an extension table for it. I do alot of quilting and it would really help to have one. Thanks for your time and response, and I love my FQ-4
Darlene,
I have an online business sewing welding hats for construction workers. I’m looking to get an embroidery machine because I get alot of request to embroider their local union # or a special logo on the band of the hat. Does the brother PE770 (and all brother machines) only use designs from the brother cards and ones downloaded from the brother website? Or can you download any design from the internet and make it into a embroidery design like the singer you’ve demostrated this month
Good Question Melanie 1164. Brother embroidery machines use two file formats .dst and .pes so downloaded designs must be in those formats for the Brother machine to read and stitch them. The Singer Futura series interprets 14 different file formats (a big Plus!) and will stitch out photographs, graphic clip art or fonts from your computer’s hard drive. If you want to be able to make custom logos and use an infinite number of fonts, you’re better off with a Singer Futura. Thanks for asking!
Dear SewThankful, I am curious about this new machine that will be shown in October. Would this machine be able to handle heavy duty materials as well as bulky materials? I am in need of a machine that can do both. I have been doing sewing repairs at home part time. I need a machine with a large enough opening to sew patches on these large Puffy Quilts. It’s such a struggle to do this on my Singer 7470. I’ve been looking at the Juki TL2000QI. I’m not sure if the opening would be large enough.
Hi Kyucker,
If you want the ultimate work horse with the extra large neck and fast speeds for alteration work, give the JukiTL2000QI a test drive. One of the many reasons it makes sense to shop with HSN! Let us know what you think:)
Hello Darling Darlene beside you being Adorable and SweetZz! I love watching you on the air! I love watching You on HSN I feel I have my very own private sewing tutor! Not only you give me confidence I feel inspired by you. If I can’t be great like I will settle for almost great like you haha. Thanks a mill for keeping someone new but anxious and eager to learn and willing to learn how to sew the correct way interested can’t wait to see more!!!!!!!!!!
BitterSw33tZz,
You are so nice to pass along so much enthusiasm and kindness. When you’re just starting out there’s no place else to go but UP so don’t worry about being correct. sewing can be a life skill or an art form depending on what level you decide to take it to and it sounds as though you’re willing to go all the way! Make it fun… keep it light…. feel the satisfaction and you’ll be posting your projects in no time:) Thanks again for watching our shows.
Hi Darlere,
I love watching your presentation.
About a month ago you showed a Singer Professionsl 2,3,4,5 Thread serger and completely sold me on it. This being National Sewing Month I was hoping I’d
be able to pick up the 14t968dc. The reviews I’m reading on this machine are very good. I hope HSN will be selling it this month or next. Have you rec’d any info on it? I tune in just to watch you and get ideas.
Thank you sew much.
Sami123, I’m so glad that you’re willing to take the plunge into the world of 5-thread serging and the coverstitch…you’ll use that all the time! I’m sorry we couldn’t get any for National Sewing Month but check back as we hope to have more in stock by the end of October (27) when our next Today’s Special will be seen. I’ll post the hours for our sewing shows as we get closer to the day and you can always check out the HSN.com blog too for info.
Darlene, please tell me if you will be showing the hd110 this month so I’ll be sure not to miss it. Thank you.
Oh Doodle 52, I feel so bad. It has been so busy this month that I JUST saw your post and we JUST sold out of the HD110 again last night :( Take heart, the Heavy Duty is a popular model so I suspect it will make a return. Hope you can hang in there until it comes back. Thank you for asking and again, I apologize for not seeing this sooner.
Hi Darlene
Love watching you, you give me so much inspiration. I have been sewing for years, and love to quilt.
You are great at presenting the machines, but the throat size is not mentioned a lot and not in the detail on product info.
Will you be coming up with a machine with a deeper throat 8 inches or more? A lot of us would be interested. Thanks
Hi Linda,
Good news! We have a new machine coming out at the end of October with an 8.5″ throat:) It will be a perfect choice for your quilting needs. Also, check out the Quantum L-500. That’s a fabulous machine with an 8.75″ throat and integrated dual feed. Sweet!
I did not see the Quantum L-500 that you mentioned. Does HSN carry it?
Thanks for replying so fast!
We must be sold out of that one too!!!It’s coming back so please check again in a few weeks time.
Hi Darlene, I have been watching your shows and reading your blog; your opinion is HIGHLY VALUED!!! I am interested in purchasing a sewing and embroidery machine. I have been sewing the last year on my families 3rd generation singer. I want to preserve it. I am developing a small clothing line. With this goal in mind, I would like to purchase a machine that is intermediate, will provide great quality and will withstand the job. What machine would you recommend? THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME!
Hi mamasboys—-
Thank you so much for watching our airings and reading my sewing blog. Kudos to you for developing your own line of apparel:) Considering you are proficient, I would recommend the Quantum L-500 or the Perfect Finish computerized machine. If you think your clothes may feature embroidery at any time in the future, you may want to wait until the October Today’s Special where you’ll see the most versatility for the price!
Thank you for asking!!
Darlene,
Will the Quartet be coming back? I’m so upset I missed purchasing it as I really wanted an all-in-one with the software. Thought it would be great to embroider and piece together a christmas tree skirt with the kids old clothes and embroider their names and cute things they said… Thanks!
I am with PEGS99 I was online purchasing the Quartet and my computer froze up. I hope the Singer Quartet will be coming back at that price too!!!! I am sick I missed ot on it too. Please bring back.
Hi BeeMee,
Don’t despair… the Quartet is in the air~~~ Good thngs are worth waiting for and if you can hang in there until the end of October I know you’ll be smiling through the holidays:)
So get your computer or phone ready becaue the best bundles and package deals are right here on HSN!
sewthankful…..you are so right!!! HSN is great about good things. O my.. this is like christmas for a child. I cant wait. I will be watching for sure. thanks
Hi PegS99,
Hang in there…. the Quartet’s cousin will be visiting in late October. If you can’t wait, we’ll be featuring the SES1000 (a large bundle also) to wrap up our sewing month 24,25 & 26 of Sept. Stay tuned and would love to see that kid’s clothes embroidered tree skirt:) Post it on FB , OK? Happy Embroidering!
Hello Darlene,
I just bought the H74 from HSN and was wondering if I have to use a special thread for the horizonal spool pin. I have never used one that loads from that direction. In the instruction book it looks like the thread is different, and I couldn’t find anything about the kinds of treads it takes in the instruction manual.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Tensi,
For everyday all purpose sewing I prefer Dual Duty Coats and Clark XP. It’s regular spools have 250 yds. of poly covered poly so it’s really strong, doesn’t shrink and holds it’s color. For denim sewing, I use denim jeans thread…. for quilting, use a cotton thread, for silks, try silk thread and a smaller size needle. You’re smart to make a list. Check it twice and stock up:) When you start a sewing spree, it runs out faster than we think!
Hello Darlene, Are you able to post your upcoming shows? I’m signed up for the email reminders but they aren’t sent until the evening before you’ll be on air. That’s enough notice to DVR the shows but often the items I’m interested in sell out – like the Futura Quartet did today. Any idea when that machine or possibly a new Futura will be available? Thanks so much.
BTW, your rolled hem tip was wonderful! Many thanks, Patti
PattiW,
Thank you so much for watching our shows. I usually post the upcoming schedule a few days before on FaceBook so you can look for it there? Simply friend me and then you’ll see the schedules as they’re posted:)
Look for a New Futura toward the end of October…..I’ll post that too!
You are awesome as usual Darlene. I’ve sewn for years, actually learned sitting on my mother’s lap, and have created a business using my sewing and design skills to solve a problem I still love watching you because you know the products so well and always have good tips. Sometimes they are things I know and haven’t done in a long time and sometimes it’s a different way of doing something.
I’ll watch for the new Futura – exciting- and your show schedule.
Have a wonderful day.
Patti W,
I appreciate your words and especially for continuing to watch our sewing shows. It’s a great place to share tips and tricks and refresh a favorite passion—SEWING!
Wishing you a wonderful day too! Thanks again for taking the time to write:)
Hi Darlene, When is the next HSN show for the Quantum L-500?
Thank you very much for all your info.
That’s a great question Lillybelle699. I don’t have any L-500 shows on my list right now but stay tuned,you never know when something may pop in:) I’ll post it before it happens.
Darlene,
I love watching your shows, but my question is, aren’t there any sewing machines available with a basting stitch selection? It seems like such a small thing to add then to try and keep adjusting the stitch length. Would love to see this stitch on a machine. If I remember correctly, the athena 2000 used to have that stitch and it was great!
Hi Marie119,
At this time, we do not have any machine with an automatic push button basting stitch that doesn’t require the length adjustment but I will pass along your excellent suggestion to the Singer team of engineers:)
Thank you!!!
Hi, Darlene. Loved your recent shows and as always, you brought tons of information and inspiration. I am excited to see all your shows this September which is Sewing Month. Thanks for all you bring us!
TENSI
HI Tensi,
Thank you for watching our airings. I’m excited too and the energy you bring is infectious! Thanks for taking the time to write. There’s much more in store so I’ll see you on-air!