Darlene’s Thread: How to Sashiko and Rolled-Hemming
Example of Sashiko
Did you know that Sashiko can be accomplished on a sewing machine? Although invented to camouflage repairs and reinforce areas of wear, today the traditional Japanese “running stitch” is used mostly for decorative purposes, and can be seen on quilting backgrounds, blocks and borders. Sashiko’s distinctive appearance is white cotton thread on blue cloth, but take liberties as an artist and use the colors that make your heart sing. I used the Quantum 9960 for this sample. The top is a lightweight denim, cotton batting under the denim and quilting cotton on the bottom. It’s #8 on this stitch panel as pictured so you can identify the graphic of the stitch.
Here's what the #8 stitch look like on the Quantum stylist
Sashiko Instructions:
1) Thread machine using contrasting thread in the top spool and thread that matches the fabric in the bobbin
2) Adjust stitch length to between 3.5 and 4.0
3) Tighten upper tension all the way (8-9)
4) Select the #8 stitch
5) Carefully and slowly stitch your pre-marked design.
Rolled-Hemming Unraveled
The rolled-hemming foot is a fabulous sewing machine accessory for achieving perfectly rolled 1/8″ hems on light to medium weight ruffles, silk scarves, fine linens, formalwear hemlines and more. Designed for lighter weight materials–different manufacturers have their version of this foot so they can vary slightly in the size of the roll–which determines how heavy a fabric to use. Grab your foot and thread your machine! Let’s add some perfect rolled hems to your bag of tricks!
1) Always start with a clean cut “straight grain” edge. No jaggers, frays or bias cuts
2) Hand sew or machine-lock stitch a 6″ thread tail 1/4″ from the corner
3) With the presser foot up, carefully hand roll the corner into the area on the foot that looks like a conch shell, and gently pull the thread tail to maneuver into place. Make sure the edge of the fabric is rolled under and gently lower the presser foot.
4) In the straight-stitch setting, adjust your needle position to insert on the extreme edge of the roll.
5) Slowly begin to sew while slightly pulling the thread tail until there’s an inch of hem behind the foot. This step will avoid typical problematic bunching.
6) Position the fabric between your right hand’s thumb and forefinger to encourage the roll to continue to feed evenly.
7) Practice makes perfect!
-
- Step 2: Hand sew or machine-lock stitch a 6″ thread tail 1/4″ from the corner
-
- Step 3: Line up the needle
-
- Step 7: Practice makes perfect!
See you on air!
Darlene
More Sewing with Darlene Cahill:
» Top 10 Sewing Tips to Always Remember
» Choosing the Right Scissors to Make the Cut
» More sewing projects and ideas
More Sewing and Crafts from HSN.com:
» Shop sewing new arrivals
» Stay steady and organized with a great sewing table
» Shop all crafts and sewing supplies
Miss Darlene, I love the sashiko stitch! I am planning on purchasing a new machine from HSN next month during National Sewing Month. Can you please tell me which machines HSN offers that have this stitch. (I’m on a pretty tight budget!) Love to see you when you’re on! Thanks so much! senialen from Alabama
Darlene, will this work on the 4-3-2 serger? I didn’t know that it was ever ok to turn wheel in clock-wise rotation. Thanks, again for your useful and much sought-after advice.
Blessed be.
Hi RHBDRAGON,
Thank you for submitting your question. In short. No. Totally different animal. On the 2,3,4 serger you simply run off the end because you’re seaming or finishing a seam on the edge of a seam. With the 5-thread coverstitching, you’re serging somewhere on the fabric’s surface—-not along an edge—so you would make stitches where you didn’t want them if you tried to stitch off…and you’re right-It is best not to turn your 2,3,4 serger’s handwheel in a counter clockwise rotation.
I’ve just started using my new futura. Iam doing good with my practicing the different types of stitches. I did have troube using the automatic threader. Any suggestions. I’m not sure that the hook is going thru the needle hole. I also have been practicing the blind hem.
Wish I had this machine sooner. Can’t wait to try the embroidary.
Rozsews,
Celebrating your bravery as you jumped into the quintessential bundle of sewing possibilities. Re: needle threader. Try this
1) make sure your needle is in it’s uppermost position or you could crunch the tiny hook that pokes through the needle’s eye.
2) swoop the thread across the inserted hook from bottom up
3) gingerly release Both hands hold and watch the thread pull through the eye slowly.
4) pinch the thread from behind to complete the pull-through.
Happy Threading!
Darlene:
Just wanted you to know I tried the trim demo that you showed on the serger last week and I tried it on my 5 thread professional. I adjusted the dials as you suggested and put 40wt embroidery thread in both loopers one a lighter shade than the other. I found 1/2 inch organza ribbon for $1.00 a roll buy one get one free at JoAnn’s and just widened the stitch width. It came out absolutely beautiful The shine is awesome. Thank you again for your special hints and techniques.
BRAVO Ginger!! So happy for you. The only thing about using the ribbon is that it won’t be as flexible around corners as cutting the organza strips on a bias but if your trim is for a relatively straight border or design, that will work great! Friend me on FB and I can tell you where you may purchase specialty threads for the upper looper. Happy Serging~
Darlene,
I love the dres with the circle that you showed while viewing the futura Quartet, can you please give me let us know how you create the circles on the dress bodice and the flower at the top. I would love to create this for my annversity in oct.
You can make this kind of design using AutoPunch. Run your graphic through the Autopunch wizard and once it’s on the screen in the Futura hoop and highlight your design. Now click DESIGN on the upper menu bar/REPEAT DESIGN from the dropdown and follow prompts. You can make the design large enough to take up 4 hoops on the 4FQ keeping the circles evenly spaced. Embroider the entire area you want. Make a separate additional panel to cut out the circles/pinch and baste into a collection on the neck
As Always….thank you …..thank you…..thank you…….!
To be clear—- I was referring to the 5-thread serger in my last post!
Thank you so much on the rolled hem tip. I watched you on HSN on the 12th and 13th. I wasn’t doing the thread tie at the start of my rolled hem, and that made all the difference. Love my Singers! Just got the professional five thread serger. It’s great. Had to remember on the cover hem to add a piece of material at the end of what I was sewing and not ry to chain off. As long as you pay attention to the directions it is not hard to use.
Doodle, there’s another way to end a seam. When you have finished stitching— hand reverse the wheel one time clockwise to release all the threads, then tightly hold the thread tail and pull your project out from under the foot. Clip threads—NEVER pull— to avoid unraveling the stitches:) Try it on a scrap. I use this method almost every time!